Sao Joao is a Catholic festival being feast of St.  John de Baptist, a prophet who is precursor of Jesus. This is celebrated at many churches like Benaulim, Siolim, Calangute, Assagao, etc.  People begin the day by going for mass and dress code should be bright colours like red, orange, pink (no dark or dull colours, except for widows, or mourning ones). Any celebration in Goa is incomplete without mass in the morning.

Every year June 24 is celebrated as Sao Joao in very traditional gaiety & fervour in all corners of Goa. Since mid June happens to be time for heavy showers, that brings glory & much cheer to the event.

Goa is a famous beach destination. But it also has beautiful breathtaking fields and hinterlands. This article is about rice farming which is the staple food of Goa and the life of a farmer. Growing rice involves lot of hardship, patience and its success depends a lot on the weather.

Sadly, fewer people are continuing with tradition as it is not very remunerative. However, there is light at the end of tunnel and it is heartening to see a lot of Goan engineers and other blue collared job holders turning into farmers. Slowly, it would seem that the world is reversing back to good old practices.

There are two popular varieties of rice grown namely Jyoti and Jaya. Jyoti is grown only from June to September (during monsoon) and Jaya in winters (grown next to water bodies). This rice is then boiled and dried.  This variety referred to as ‘boiled rice’ is consumed by most Goans. There is also local brown rice, which is unpolished or processed (parboiled) and is supposed to be very healthy.

Going back to olden times, every household in Goa practiced farming with each one owing fields and cattle.  The head of the family would impart the knowledge and the same was passed on to the heirs and successive generations.  While many of the traditional practices are still being followed, some mechanisation has been introduced in recent years.

Come May, the fields are first ploughed to soften the mud, make beds, mud partitions and remove the weeds. These are the first steps to prepare the paddy field. Usually two bullocks are tied to a steel plough (nagor in Konkani). While they pull the yoke, the farmer urges them on in the right direction using specific language. The bullocks are treated as pets and often have names too (based on days of the week, or so like Mangal, Guru, etc). During the dry season, cattle need to graze and are often taken to hill sides or unused fields for the same.

After enriching the soil with manure, the farmer spreads sprouted seeds (Rou) uniformly in a fenced nursery with beds of rectangular sizes. The seeds need to be protected from birds and other creatures for a week or two (then someone or the other stays there whole day carrying a metal box with stick to make sound!!!), till it takes root and plants sprout. From dawn to dusk, the farmer is witnessed in the fields, taking care of tiny patch of green in his vast spread land. With ample amount of rains, the crop grows thick and long in about 3 weeks. If rains are more which floods the fields, then small water channels are made so excess water flows.

In 21-22 days, the process of transplanting takes place. Here the crop is uprooted and replanted in bunches of 2-3 saplings leaving space of 4-5 inches in between each other. Uniformly planted seeds give better yield than the ones planted randomly as our friend Pantaleao Fernandes, who has written many nice books on attractions and traditions of Goa. Mainly groups of ladies do this job and it’s quite a beautiful sight to behold.

After this, the farmer gets some relief and the rain does its job of raising the crops. In between weeding is done so that the crop can grow with full force and can extract all nutrition from ground. By end August, flowers and panicle form, which turn golden when mature. The field indeed looks like a gold mine! By end September the crop is ready to be harvested and farmers keep praying that no rains come once its ready, as that spoils the standing crop.

There is a beautiful thing about farming which many Indian movies depict especially that of a farmer’s wife carrying an earthen pot filled with food on her head and serving hot meal to her hard working man. After doing such hard work, one can just relish the food as it tastes much better when hungry and even more so when one is enjoying it amidst nature.

Tip for Next Trip: If you plan in advance, we can organise for you to be a part of this beautiful event work shoulders to shoulders with locals! In fact rice is grown twice a year in Goa – once in June and second time in November or so (second time is at far fewer places)

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Implements used in the fields (also mentioned in local Konkani language):

Usually all handmade and natural products are used in the fields (no plastic or aluminium) and most of these are woven out of bamboo:

1. Pantte / Ojem: A bamboo container to carry rice or vegetables. It helps to carry bulky stuff together
2. Sup: A bamboo container to carry small portion of rice. Usually used by farmer while spreading the seeds. It is also used to separate empty grains from good ones, in the open fields (standing as per wind direction). This process takes place after harvesting
3. Coddo: A cylindrical bamboo container in which grains are stored and protected from rats, etc
4. Bhann: A big copper pot, which is used to boil the grains in bulk
5. Dai: A big spoon shaped wooden implement, used to turn the rice while boiling
6. Ator: A bamboo mat used to dry the grains after boiling

This topic is one of the most interesting ones that I love. We have our own fields and we sow in June and harvest (rice) in September.

We all know, that farmer works in the fields almost whole day and takes care of all the chores. So what role do the ladies play in the field? Besides cooking & farming, ladies are very hard working too and fun loving, they bring the joy and happiness in the barren fields. Laughter completely alters the atmosphere and mood of the folks. It is also said that Laughter (and jokes) is the best medicine that make us happier and more productive.

Last year, somewhere in June, our replanting process took place, and I had taken 2 full days off from office work. Day started at 6 am, doing all background preparations, it became 7 and then we set out to our fields on feet, which is a mile away from my house. It was raining when started the transplantation. My sister and some relatives also joined us – the more the merrier!

In olden days, all family members and relatives used to get together and do this. But lately, as everyone is changing to ‘modern’ ways, this profession has lost its sheen.

Yoga word originated from Sanskrit “Yog” and means a physical, mental and spiritual way of communicating with inner self, practiced since ancient times. Yoga gurus like Swami Vivekananda have spread the practice to foreign countries.

Though it originated in India, now the people around the world practice it, being a wonderful gift from our ancestors! It is really helpful to relieve from stress & get peace of mind.

International UN World Yoga Day is celebrated on 21 Jun every year since it was declared so in 2014 and has become very popular worldwide with millions of people practising this.

We too do it at home regularly and celebrated the day by performing on rooftop garden of our office building, a little bit after rains subsided.

Recently Times of India published an article that Goan Engineers are turning into Farmers. I must say though, not only engineers, even other professionals employed in different fields are trying to be innovative and creative in their own ways, have rediscovered their inner talent and showcased themselves to the world in their renewed avataar. In the days of lockdown, social media has played a crucial role to promote such talent, through Whatsapp, Facebook or Instagram status. In fact most of us have discovered something new to work our hands on, have learnt more patience and to be compassionate to others. There is entire new feeling about respecting mother nature and lot of small children have reconnected with nature (instead of gadgets) and family bonds have become stronger!

While some are just keeping it as their hobby, others have made it into their profession. For example, people who were working abroad and are stuck in Goa, have started with own small and innovative businesses, even if it is temporary. For example fast food restaurants (take-away), selling fish or in other unique ways.

Corona Virus has created panic situation in the entire world and so many deaths have taken place besides multiple times the affected cases! The persistence efforts of doctors and nurses have deeply touched our hearts. In order to pay our tribute to them and keep ourselves safe (thus not causing additional burden on them) from this pandemic, we stayed inside our houses.

This lock down has been beneficial in many ways, leave aside small discomforts and adverse economic impacts. This pandemic has changed our lifestyle someway or the other!

1. We have learnt to spend less on unnecessary products / items, adopted healthier habits like eating fresh food cooked at home and started avoiding junk & other fast foods

2. This pandemic has brought out a new trend of reusing the old products in upcycled manner, e.g. convert old denim clothes into bags; make face masks out of old material, etc

2. People have learnt to control their house / personal expenses, by doing small things at home itself like hair cutting, hair dye, start organic growing vegetables at home, making pasties & cookies, etc.

3. Some have started doing short films, nature photography, singing / dancing – all from comforts of home! While many have actually started exercising, meditation & yoga which they avoided despite taking numerous new year resolutions! This has led to healthier living combined by eating healthy food and of course, not to forget that we have much cleaner air, water and surrounding which came as a boon to entire earth.

Today I had the opportunity to visit rice fields at Aquem Baixo and Paroda area, where the transplantation job is in progress – thanks to Astrida for timely idea!!

For a change I skipped my morning exercise and left around 8.45 am to explore the places. It was drizzling slightly when I left but then it stopped completely, though remained cloudy and nice!

Such a divine feeling to be there – like in heaven, started clicking people in action from where I entered walking, parked scooter on the road. Saw one guy in action repairing his big machine and all others were occupied in their respective jobs.

Kept the best part for last, where Astrida used to shoo the birds away, left my slippers on the road and started treading through the field / made my way to the same patch, where I could see all paddy sapling grown up in two weeks time….so lush!! Your and your folks hard work paid….noticed a gentleman doing work with long fawda (spade)! Upon giving closer look, realised he is your dad, wow! What a pleasure to see him smile at me!

Requested him to allow me do some work and he obliged me to use fawda, so this made up for me skipping my work out of the day, by loosening the mud at the side of mer (elevated pathway between plots). As by next weekend, they will use tilling machine to do the same to rest of field (as we did only at border areas, where machine will not do it without damaging the mer). The Monday after next Sunday (6 Jul) which will be about 22 days from the day of sowing seeds, its planned to replant the saplings from nursery to field. While doing so, realised her mother removing weeds a bit far away from us!

One is lucky to be born in the farmer’s family and what an opportunity for me to find them one by one in action! Later the lady came near us and started clearing weeds from other plots too, I too did my bit. In a delightful move, gentleman started striking more conversation with me, which was amusing, with questions like, where I am from; how many children I have, etc! My bad Konkani must have amused them too. In fact she did mention, it would be so much nicer if I could speak the language fluently…..and I know for sure, its going from bad to worse actually. She asked me if I had tea, to which I said no, but would leave soon as was supposed to go to Paroda too to see more of such activities. Then the gentleman ushered me to the stream and fished out a small snail and said its a local delicacy! I said I don’t eat but my ghorkani (wife) does at which he really laughed loud! I also disclosed him that I like snakes and catch them by hand too sometimes.

We also spoke about rains being so less this time. In fact in the other fields, they were using diesel operated pumps for filling it (from nearby stream) to desired level.

I was particularly impressed by the devotion and integrity they do their daily chores with such great coordination. She too utilises her day so well, keeping herself busy all days, helping her other friend in field, doing work in own field and innumerable jobs at home!  Hats off to them!

I noticed he is thin, but is very strong built with clearly chiselled / carved out muscles in his arms and legs! And so is your mom, real daughter of tamdi mati (red soil) of Goa!! And the posture that they maintain while working, is remarkably scientific and right for body! The age old tradition of clothing oneself properly while doing field work is also impressive.

Just imagine, with the changing times, when farming is an ignored profession, while it should be everyone’s business, how the future will be with less and less people being passed on age old wisdom….farms being converted into commercial land or residential projects, roads being widened, trees being cut mercilessly and plastic & other garbage all around…..yet we do have hope, as we see many professionals from other stream getting back to farming, as per our other blog!!

After feeling enriched with their conversation, I thankfully said bye and started walking to the road. Passed through same first lot of people again, who I had disclosed actually that I was clicking the photo for uploading on website to showcase rice cultivation in Goa, I rode my scooter to Paroda!

Paroda region is one of the most beautiful places in Goa, with many rice patches on either side of road. Similar work in the fields was in full swing at many places and what a beautiful sight to behold

Clicked several more photos, though camera did not cooperate well. Took right turn towards the Paroda parvat (hill) and it reminded me of my past several visits to this region that truly looks a slice of paradise especially in rains! Saw military guys in full gear with machine gun, etc marching in unison on either side of main road!

All in all, it was a great way to start my morning, very refreshing and also an eye opener! The local people doing traditional works is the very essence of any land and must be preserved and protected for eternity! And farming must be everyone’s business in whatever small way one can! Not only a handful of villagers be burdened with feeding entire planet!

Have you ever tasted your meal on a banana leaf?

No…. then you should try it! Yes… then share your experience with us, we will be delighted to read it.

Rich green leaf topped with white rice & colourful dishes like sambar, chutney, chana masala with sweet- sour pickle & papad with a big fish in one corner & a sweet in another, brings out the taste buds alive! Making you feel so hungry, even a person on a diet will be tempted to forget the routine and ”bas toot paddo” (in Hindi) means will just go for it!!!

Incredible India, is really Incredible in many ways! It has left, specially foreigners awe struck and deeply impressed in so many ways and eating on banana leaf is one of them! Of course in some other Asian countries too, its practiced!

India has a long standing tradition to serve meal on banana leaf for festivities, religious pooja (prayer ceremony), weddings and even death. We have always walked hand in hand with nature whether its our eating habits, medicines, beauty secrets, etc . Eating in plastic or artificially made wares was never a life style for us before….in fact for royal functions, they even used brass & silver utensils! For most Hindu religious ceremonies, they use a cut banana tree itself and also its leaves are used to package the giveaway prasad (eatables offered to god first and then to public).

This practice of eating on banana leaf one finds more in south Indian states currently like Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh and rarely in Goa & Maharashtra. On special occasions like wedding & other religious ceremonies, where huge crowd gathers including street urchins, which requires large amount of food & utensils, there banana leaf acts as a price saver and is bio degradable too .

It has thick coating so it can handle good amount of food easily. It also helps prevent many lifestyle diseases besides adding more nutrition & aroma to the food served on it. It is inexpensive, easy to make into a plate, doesn’t need any washing and decomposes in nature adding manure to soil.

Eating on banana leaf in Kerala has been my long pending wish, still unfulfilled. Even though in Goa luckily I got an opportunity to taste once when I attended Ganesh Chaturthi celebration at my friend’s house with traditional food (Veg). I though believe, there is something very unique and special about Kerala food that beckons me!

I had a golden opportunity when I visited Kerala in 2017 for ‘Splash’ in Wayanad along with another colleague. All arrangements of meal were made at a hotel in Calicut, but time was not in our favour as our bus got delayed and we had to rush to railway station for our train. So missed it….

I take it as a reason to go back to Kerala and eat to my heart’s content! Of course there are many other wishes which “Gods own Country” has to fulfil like watching snake boat race, taking special Ayurvedic oil massage, eating all kinds of unique dishes / sweets prepared out of banana, wear traditional saree with long hair plait (with artificial hair, as my actual hair is very short), etc……

When in India next, do make it a point to savour your hot food served on banana leaf, using your hands and just don’t care what others would think about how you are managing! Enjoy your meal!!